Himalaya 2009 : Maoist Lovism and AK-47

"Sebelum trekking ke Nepal harus banyak treadmill dan berenang, untuk latihan pernafasan, agar nafas lebih ritmis di saat oksigen tipis dan yg paling penting, tidak kena serangan jantung ketika ditodong M-16 nya pemberontak Maoist..." kata teman di sebuah blog minggu lalu.

Rupanya dia baru turun dari Jiri, jalan darat menuju Everest base camp, dan saat pulang dihadang pemberontak Maoist di jalan. Hahaha.. senasib dong sama gue. Bedanya, gue dapet AK-47 nya, bukan M-16, yah biarpun sama-sama senjata otomatis yg bisa muntah puluhan peluru sekali tekan.

Bedanya lagi, dia ditodong di Jiri (Nepal Timur), saya ditodong di Dunche (Utara). Yah biarpun sama-sama di Nepal dan sama-sama ditodong sama Maoist. Sama nya lagi, kita sama-sama hidup, seperti kata Bob Marley, "everything just gonna be alright".

Deg-degan pasti dong... tapi dengan kepedean bahwa mereka tidak akan membunuh turis asing (kecuali pemberontaknya ada yg latah... eh salah pencet 'bo...!) then, we're just gonna be alright. Cukup siapkan Rs.2000 setiap kali ditodong, dan kita akan bebas. Dan karena paling tidak akan ada 3 kali penodongan, maka siapkan Rs.6000! and you'll be set free...

Dan karena di Nepal tidak ada kedutaan Indonesia, maka semua risiko perjalanan adalah tanggung jawab traveler sendiri, termasuk urusan diplomatik. Tidak akan ada yg tau kalau turis Indonesia ada yg ditembak, dikarungin trus diceburin ke jurang... tidak akan ada yg peduli juga kalo kita dipenjara trus dipasung atau diasingkan ke hutan... (hmm..berlebihan!). Poin nya adalah : beli asuransi perjalanan extreme sport dengan coverage minimal US$ 1 juta include medical and emergency evacuation. Nah itu baru ada yg peduli...

Pemberontak Maoist dengan jargon Lovism (Pathways to Heaven) yg disimbolkan dengan garis melingkar2 sebagau ilustrasi hidung Buddha ternyata cukup unik dalam mengekspresikan "lovism" nya... yaitu dengan menodongkan senjata kepada kami. Mungkin sebenernya mereka mau bilang : welcome to my country. we love you brother... but love comes with a price.... and now gimme your damn bucks!

But this place is too nice to be missed. Once in a lifetime experience. And I was a lucky one :)

PS : DON'T TELL THIS TO MY MOM

Himalaya 2009 : Syabrubesi (1430m)

Syabrubesi, the last village reachable by vehicle on the Langtang Himal region, is settled at 1,430m altitude. A small village that provides basic lodging for the trekkers before the get 'lost' out of civilization.

This village has approximately 20 hostel and lodging, ranging from NR30 (Rp.5,000) to NR200 (Rp.30,000) per night room only. For food, the Daal Bhat, a local diet, cost you about NR100 (Rp.15,000) to NR150 (Rp.22,500). Hot ice lemon tea costs NR100 (Rp.15,000) and a mineral water bottle tagged at NR30 (Rp.4,500). An internet cafe using dial-up radio telephone is also available and charge you NR125 (Rp.18,750) per hour.

Syabrubesi can be reached by public bus (operating daily from Kathmandu central bus station, departing every 7:00AM) costs NR240 (Rp.36,000) or using a private jeep which costs normally NR4,000 (Rp.600,000). The drive will take normally 8h30 until 10hrs for 168km distance, depending on the weather.

The terrain is an off-road environment. The paved road from Kathmandu reached up to Trishuli Bazaar, the first 68km of the journey, the rest is just so called 'road' with occasional waterfall cuts the way, and landslides!

I stayed at Buddha Hotel. The room was basic but it has a nice shared toilet and hot shower! and electricity to charge my camera's batteries, before the great trek begins. In the first floor, there's a restaurant where all the guests are served meals for breakfast and dinner. This village is the last place with electricity, so I have to be really wise to deal with it.

Rhododendron flowers

My bus

Afternoon time, before 4pm the bus arrived (thank God!) after some severe ordeals have to be encountered along the way. The temperature shows 10C, and the drizzle begins to moist the valley.

I spent the afternoon walking around the valley, talking with the villagers and admired the Rhododendron flowers over the sunset. A plate of Daal Bhat and hot Nepali tea wrapped up my day. A good sleep is required before the great journey begins, tomorrow morning to Pairo (Landslide Village - 1,800m) and Lama Hotel (2,300m), where I spotted a small place called the Shangri-la.

The river on my narrow sidewalk to Shangri-la

Hanoi 2008 : O Donna Donna

Hanoi - oh Donna Donna When I first hit the road of Hanoi, one thing I remember is the Donna Donna song, my mom's favorite. Written by Joan Baez popular in the mid 60's. Hanoi is pretty much alike with what the song tells. Packed with bicycles, the Hanoi road is distinguished from any other world capital cities. ]

Women wearing colorful traditional costume and Vietnamese corn-hat while cycling down the road gives a strong nuance and identity to the city. As well, sign of a strong Communist influence, as Baez implicitly portrayed in his lyrics. Another identity of this city is sports. Everyone loves sports. Every morning elderly people gather in the public park doing exercise (a kind of Indonesia's SKJ in the early 90's). The younger people do badminton or soccer games, or just run for jogging. At another corner of the park near a lake, grandies do Chinese tai chi exercise, beautifully performed with red fans danced in their hands.

Also at night, people gather at the street banks for dinner with their families and relatives. Outside their house. Basil's fragrance is another identity; soups, shrimp rolls, pho (noodles) and beef alike are in flavor of those basils. This street's smell distinguished it from Delhi (incense) and Jakarta (cigarette). O Hanoi Donna Donna. People are so friendly, like my mom's story of those in the seventies. Eventhough they don't speak English but their smiles saying that we are welcomed as a family. In the night market, we sit together with the street vendors, talking about education and children, food and tourism and their hopes of the future Viet nations.

I was overwhelmed with their sincerity and life spirit. Jomima took some bracelets made of stones which was decorated with colorful characters and painting. They made it special for her. I myself prefer to enjoy the talks and eyeing on the crowds... and sometimes take a few shots.

The night market has turned its function from a mere exchange place into a system to interact and show-off their communality. Vietnam has shown the world that Communist could co-mingle with prosperity. And they portray it beautifully.